February 28, 2024
We arrived at the airport in Bangkok and found all the airplanes, people and traffic missing from the Siem Reap Airport. The immigration line stretched for a mile but moved efficiently. By the time we reached baggage claim, our luggage was orbiting the carousel so we grabbed it and headed out to meet our driver, Noak, who would drive us to the condo Teresa found downtown.
Noak helped load our luggage in his van but he spoke as much English as I do Thai. Traffic on the large freeways was heavy and backed up. The sky was yellow brown in the afternoon sun from smog. Many, many high-rises filled the skyline in all directions. The tallest in the city center had a billboard that flashed, “Long Live the King”, continuously. This country is definitely more monarchical than Cambodia, it seems.
We arrived at our destination and Noak dropped us off curbside. We immediately attracted the attention of street vendors seeking our business. We struggled getting our bags up a set of steps and quickly headed to the entrance.
We entered the building’s lobby and found the elevator. We took it to the 51st floor and found our condo. It has two balconies with incredible views of the nearby river below.
After unpacking and figuring out how to turn on the air conditioning, we checked out the building’s amenities and found a rooftop bar appropriately named, “The Sky Bar”. We went up to check it out and to see what the happy hour specials were.
Stepping up to the bar we were informed that it was for “standing only”. No seating or bar stools. Weird. We ordered two drinks. The bill was $80. “Sky high!”, I thought, “We won’t be drinking here again.” Fortunately there is a 7-11 across the street. It’s a great place to drink.
In Vietnam, the drinks were a couple of dongs and 2 for 1. I’m already missing that Communist Party.
After dinner “downstairs”, we went back to the condo and enjoyed the nighttime views. Tomorrow will be a full day.
February 29, 2024
We leapt out of bed (it’s leap day after all) bright and early ready for a day of adventure. Teresa made plans for us to visit the Grand Palace, a former royal palace and home to the Kings of Siam. It’s located a couple of miles up river from our condo location.
Looking at our transport options we decided to catch the ferry boat. The ferry boat terminal is close by but first we needed to get some cash.
Checking Google Maps, I found an ATM machine across the street at the 7-11 where we picked up provisions last night.
We headed out of our royalty-endorsed luxury high-rise into the now teeming and dirty streets. Food vendors were setting up and had taken over every square inch of sidewalk. Walking in the busy street was now necessary. Fortunately there are fewer scooters here than in Hanoi and Saigon so it felt slightly less dangerous than the whirling dervish scenes from Vietnam.
Teresa tried to get $100 in local cash which is 4,000 Bahts but the ATM did not cooperate. There were no English instructions. Only the illegible scribblings of the Thai alphabet. “There’s got to be another ATM machine on the way”, I said and we continued on towards the ferry terminal.
Sure enough, another bank around the corner had functioning ATMs and Teresa got her 4 – 1,000 Baht bills and we continued on.
As we approached the river, several men came up to us offering their services to take us up river by private boat. Boat hustlers. “No thanks”, we said, explaining we were going to take the public transport.
Once at the terminal, Teresa went to the ticket window to buy two boat tickets. But the ticket lady refused to take the 1,000 Baht note (equivalent to 25 US dollars … she wanted smaller currency notes) and she refused our MasterCard, saying, “American Express only”.
We turned around and headed back to the nearby boat hustlers. I tried to negotiate a fee and when we reached an agreement, he declined the 1,000 Baht note and told us to get smaller notes at a nearby ATM. I tried to use the Mastercard but he said “American Express only”.
It’s like we’ve gone back in time 40 years and Karl Malden, big nose and all, is advising us not to leave home without it.
But we did. We left our American Express at home.
Now to find somewhere to exchange the large bills for smaller notes of this worthless currency that this country seems to thrive on.
What will we do?
(h/t to comedy skit by Burger and Cobb)
Having failed at getting a boat ride to the Grand Palace, we decided to get a taxi. Earlier in the week, while talking about options for ride hailing services, one of our guides suggested I download Grab, an app similar to Uber since Uber did not operate in this part of the world.
I fired up the Grab app and started ordering a ride. On the map showing the destination, I easily pinpointed the Grand Palace but when selecting a pickup location, I was uncertain exactly where to show it.
The Grab app suggested the entrance of a nearby hotel, the Shangri-La Bangkok Hotel (or “โรงแรมแชงกรี-ลา กรุงเทพฯ” as the locals call it), a hotel Teresa was familiar with from a previous visit.
We headed the short distance there and I hit “GO” and the Grab app started its calculations. In a minute it found a driver and car for 244 Bahts. Mastercard accepted. And only three blocks away.
We waited.
And waited.
Where the Grab app showed 10 minutes for the wait time with a driver nearby when I accepted the ride, now it showed an hour wait with the driver furiously peddling his way to town from nearby Burma. “I’m on the way”, the driver breathlessly reassured via the Grab app.
Nearby, the hotel’s doorman helped a couple get into a taxi under the port-cochere. As he was heading back to the lobby past us, I asked if he could call a taxi for us. He did and in a couple of minutes, a plain old fashioned taxi pulled up curbside and we jumped in. I canceled the Grab ride, feeling sorry for the poor driver now on the outskirts of town.
In 15 minutes our taxi dropped us off at the entrance to the Grand Palace. It was 9:30 in the morning and Teresa had reserved tickets for a 9:30 arrival. Perfect timing.
We picked up our tickets and entered the elaborate gold painted compound. The place was packed with other visitors. Statues of fantastic creatures popped out at every turn. In the distance, a group of people waited in line to pray and make offerings. A small kerfuffle ensued when a worshipper set the place on fire by pouring too much oil on an open flame. Fire fighters were quick to respond.
Teresa decided we needed to see the Emerald Buddha so we headed off to that part of the compound and got prepared. Shoes off (and in a rack) and no head coverings. The Buddha is bald and fat. Something I can relate to.
We entered the temple filled with kneeling congregates. I rubbed my belly. As I reached for my phone to take a picture, a guard looked sternly at me and pointed to a sign that read, “NO PHOTOS”. I put my cell phone back in my pocket and decided today would not be a good day for instant death or to have a one-on-one with the Buddha. It’s my karma.
Having had our fill of bodhisattvas, we decided to depart this existence but first a stop at the gift shop. I searched for a t-shirt that read, “I worshipped the Emerald Buddha and all I got was this lousy t-shirt” (to no avail) while Teresa found and purchased a beautiful silk scarf, much to the pleasure of the smiling Buddha.
We headed back to our deluxe apartment in the sky, this time by ferry boat since we now had smaller change. And, as our lucky karma would have it, the boat terminal was at the exit of the Grand Palace.
We purchased two one way tickets for the “Orange Flag” line and waited a short while. While standing on the loading docks, waves from the many passing boats caused the floating platforms to heave up and down and side to side nearly knocking all the waiting passengers down.
Our ferry boat tied down to the mooring cleats and a wave of passengers departed clearing our way on board. Fifteen stops later we were back to our familiar haunts. Passing by our boat hustler from the morning who wouldn’t accept out 1,000 Baht bills, I suggestively waved a handful of pink 100 Bs at him and told him he missed out.
“This is what the sound of one hand clapping sounds like”, the stiff paper Bahts flapping in the breeze.
March 1, 2024
It’s the last day of our Chasing the Dragon adventure. Tonight we leave for the airport at 11 PM with our flight departing at 2 AM tomorrow morning. Then a quick 24 plus hours of being shoehorned into an airline seat for an Atlanta arrival yesterday. International date lines and times can be confusing.
Last night we walked to the river and found a little bar waterside. Called “Jack’s Bar”, it had a pair of seats facing the river with a view of the developing sunset. We ordered drinks and chatted with our neighboring seat mates who were visiting from Manchester, England.
This morning in preparation for our return trip we are doing laundry. The condo has a washer but no dryer so my new KL underwear has been spread out on a table in the sun on the balcony. 51 floors above the streets of Bangkok. Clairvoyantly, I can see it sailing away to a brighter whiter future in some distant Thai home. A gift from the Buddhas.
We decided to explore the neighborhood outside our highrise but first we had to check out the building’s other amenities. One floor up we found a restaurant with a glass walkway leading to an octagonal oculus overlooking the city. Very Star-Wars-like. The only thing missing was a seated Emperor Palpatine encouraging our growing feelings of hunger. Maybe we should come back for lunch.
We headed back to the elevators and started walking thru the busy, noisy streets below.
All sorts of businesses were open and operating from grocery stores to machine shops. Vendors were selling food and lottery tickets.
Nearby, Gloria Gaynor disco music could be heard echoing down a narrow alleyway. Turning the corner, we expected to find a bustling bar but instead were greeted by the scene of preschoolers dancing and gyrating for their proud parents.
Heading back to our building, Teresa found a clothier and bought some items.
We will survive, hey hey!
A farewell dinner and a final night in Bangkok, back on the waterfront. The scene of so much action. This city really comes to life after dark. It may have something to do with the weather. This afternoon in the shade it was 100 degrees with high humidity.
We hailed a tuk-tuk for the ride to dinner. The passenger compartment designed so you have to lounge on your back more so than sitting upright. Like a motorized king sized bed on wheels and belching smoke.
We enjoyed the seafood we ordered but everything is hot and spicy. Last night’s salad was so hot as to be nearly inedible. My face blood red and coughing, the waiter was ready to dial 911 or the local equivalent of 1699 or 1669 (or 1646 or 1554 in Bangkok) for medical emergencies; tourist police, 1155; car theft, 1192; a taxi refusing a trip, 1584; road accidents, 1146. Handy and easy to remember.
We head to the airport at 10:30 PM and prepare for the long flight back to Atlanta. I’m looking forward to the curried oryx with yogurt porridge. Hopefully it’s not too spicy.
March 2, 2024
We made it back to Atlanta after an 8 hour flight from Bangkok to Doha and connecting to a flight to Atlanta. Only 16 hours for that segment.
On the way out of Doha we flew over Iraq following the Tigris River. Looking out from 40,000 feet, I could see Baghdad below. Glad we weren’t any lower.
The countries and places we visited are incredible and the people wonderful and we made many instant best friends who sadly won’t be seen again. Such is life in the fast lane.
Stuck in traffic on the Downtown Connector, it’s good to be back home in beautiful Atlanta.
